Divided by a border, united by fear: Kashmiris pick up the pieces after India-Pakistan step back from the brink

By Esha Mitra, Immad ud Din, Mukhtar Ahmad, Aishwarya S. Iyer, Sophia Saifi, Ross Adkin and Rhea Mogul, CNN

Mohammad Iqbal was working the night shift at a power plant when he got a frantic call from his family saying artillery shells were exploding around their home.

"I told them all to hunker down in one room together on the ground floor and hopefully things would become okay by morning," he told CNN.

But dawn brought no relief from the shelling that would continue for four days as India and Pakistan fought their most intense conflict in decades, raising fears of an all-out war.

Iqbal, 47, lives near the town of Poonch in India-administered Kashmir, a stone's throw from the de facto border with Pakistan, an area of pine-clad foothills and flowery meadows, backdropped by towering, icy peaks.

But the idyll is illusory - the disputed region of Kashmir is one of the world's most militarised regions and the trigger for multiple wars between India and Pakistan, who both claim the territory in full but control only in part.

Last week, the nuclear-armed neighbours traded missiles, drones, and artillery shelling for four days following a massacre of tourists in Indian-administered Kashmir last month that New Delhi blamed on its neighbour, which Pakistan denies.

Two hours after the firing started last Wednesday, Iqbal got news that his brother-in-law's home had been hit.

The shell had exploded at a nearby water tank, obliterating windows and sending shards of glass flying, hitting his brother-in-law and niece.

What followed was a frantic scramble to get the wounded to the nearest hospital.

"As people started evacuating, there were a few people in the village with cars, so people just poured into whatever vehicle they could find," Iqbal said.

"For a few hours, it was difficult to locate everyone. People got split up. But finally, at the hospital, my family came together."

There, he found his brother-in-law, who works as a policeman, critically wounded and medical staff struggling to treat the influx of casualties.

Iqbal's brother-in-law survived.

But two of his neighbours did not.

Pakistan said on Tuesday that 40 civilians had been killed and 121 wounded in Indian firing, and that 11 members of its armed forces had been killed.

India has previously said 15 civilians were killed and 59 wounded and that it had lost five soldiers.

For the roughly 15 million people living in the contested region, the latest bout of hostilities has appeared to push a political solution for their home further away than ever.

But the immediate concern on both sides of Kashmir is how long the skies will stay quiet.

"There is an uneasy calm here," Amir Choudhary, 25, from the town of Akhnoor in India-administered Kashmir, told CNN on Sunday, hours after the ceasefire came into effect.

"Markets are open again and some people who had left have slowly started coming back," he said.

"There still is that anxiety about what might happen when night comes," he added.

On the other side of the Line of Control, in Pakistan-administered Kashmir, Saima Ashraf shared those feelings.

"Uncertainty still prevails," she said.

"Many believe it (the ceasefire) is not a permanent solution."

Others are unclear about when they can return to their homes and villages.

"Many of them are waiting to see how the situation develops before making a decision about returning," Akhtar Ayoub, a local administration official in Pakistan's Neelum Valley, told Reuters.

Raja Shoukat Iqbal, who lives near the de facto border, described the ceasefire as "essential for the people of Kashmir", who he said were paying a high price on both sides of the divide.

"This peace was also necessary on the international level because both countries are nuclear powers; any mistakes or anger of any country could cause the deaths of two billion people," he posited.

Flashpoint

The disputed region of Kashmir has been a flashpoint since 1947, when British India was hastily divided into two by its former colonial rulers.

What followed was the birth of two nations: Hindu-majority India and Muslim-majority Pakistan. Millions suddenly found themselves on the "wrong" side of the new border, leading to a frantic and bloody mass migration that tore communities asunder.

Kashmir, a Muslim-majority state led by a Hindu monarch, was in a unique position. Pakistan laid claim to the territory, while the prince chose India.

Both Pakistan and India, two nations gripped by fervent nationalism, believe that Muslim-majority Kashmir is an integral part of their countries.

For Pakistan, which was founded as a homeland for South Asia's Muslims, Kashmir's division is viewed as a grave historic injustice.

The country's powerful military is run by General Asim Munir, known for his hardline stance on India. Weeks before the latest conflict, he described the disputed region of Kashmir as Pakistan's "jugular vein," according to local media reports.

India has long accused Pakistan of funding terror groups in the disputed region of Kashmir, an accusation denied by Islamabad. Pakistan, meanwhile, seeks to position the cause of violence in the region as a result of New Delhi's alleged "oppression."

Hindu nationalist Prime Minister Narendra Modi has pushed a more uncompromising position on the contested land.

In 2019, his Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) government split the former state into two union territories, giving the government in New Delhi greater control over the Muslim-majority region.

'Our family is together'

India and Pakistan have both claimed victory from their latest conflict.

New Delhi said its strikes inside Pakistani territory - the deepest since one of their wars in 1971 - have eradicated terror camps used to plot attacks on India, including the massacre of tourists last month that sparked the conflict.

Pakistan said its air force shot down five Indian warplanes, including advanced French-made Rafale fighter jets.

On Monday, in his first remarks since the fighting started, Modi said India had "only suspended our responsive attack on Pakistan's terror and military hubs."

"In the coming days, we will measure Pakistan's every step," he said.

Those on both sides of the border have long been living under the threat of shelling and strikes.

A student from Uri, in India-administered Kashmir, described to CNN lying awake as the sound of shelling shook his home last week.

"We sat in silence, extremely petrified," he said.

"Praying the next target would not be our family or our home."

The student, who CNN is not naming for security reasons, described the jubilant moment he heard the news announcing the ceasefire.

"Smiles plastered across our faces, and we hugged," he said.

"We now want this ceasefire to stay. Both countries need to find long-term solutions."

Iqbal, the power plant worker, said he was trying to remain optimistic despite the damage done.

"We are lucky," he said.

"We have only homes to rebuild and our family is together. I hope things don't resume. But there's no guarantee."

- CNN