The war in Gaza has severely impacted Jordan's tourism industry. Photo: Pietra Brettkelly
Jordan doesn't have the oil that's made its neighbours wealthy, and the tourism industry propping up its economy is under immense pressure
In the ancient city of Petra, in Jordan, archaeologists are measuring and moving 2000-year-old blocks of carved stone.
Towering over them are the intricate facades carved into sandstone cliffs in the once-thriving Nabatean civilisation.
The workers seem oblivious to the tourists peering at them as they toil in the blazing sun uncovering more of this UNESCO site.
The famous treasury Al-Khazneh, a is one of the most elaborate rock-cut tombs in Petra. Photo: Sharon Brettkelly
It is peak tourist season here but visitor numbers are very weak, hurting everyone from Bedouin guides to the horse and donkey owners whose livelihoods are in ruins.
Today The Detail looks at how this peaceful country, that depends heavily on tourism, is struggling with the fallout from the two-year-old Gaza war, and a shaky peace deal.
"The tourist, he's not coming to Jordan here," says horse owner Omar Al-Hlalat. "He's scared of Jordan, but Jordan is very safe."
The father of four says he had three customers a day before the war. Now it's one every two weeks.
"I only have this horse for my business," he says.
Bedouin tour guide Hamad Hamad al Manajih serving tea. Photo: Sharon Brettkelly
Tourism took off in Petra when it was declared one of the seven new wonders of the world in 2007 but growth was strained by nearly two decades of conflicts, followed by Covid.
Just as it was finally starting to recover, the Gaza war put off visitors to the extent that at least 35 hotels in nearby Wadi Musa closed last year.
Freelance guide Hashem Nawafleh tells The Detail that 90 percent of the area's income is from tourism and there are no other options for small operators like horse owner Al-Hlalat. They've taken out bank loans to get them through the downtime but now they are struggling to repay them, he says.
Many visitors came to Jordan on packaged tours that included Israel and Egypt.
"Visitors from Europe, US, all over the world cancelled their trips to Jordan thinking that Jordan is not safe because the war is right next to us.
Sharon Brettkelly (far left) interviewing horse owner Omar Al-Hlalat as his horses stand by. Photo: Pietra Brettkelly
"It's just a misunderstanding that people have. When they watch the news they see people fighting in Gaza or Israel, they think that all the region is the same."
Twenty-six year old Nawafleh proudly guides visitors through his home town of Petra. He says his country of 11 million - including up to four million refugees, mainly from Palestine and Syria - needs overseas visitors because it is not oil-rich like its neighbours.
Bedouin guide Hamad Hamad al Manajih lives a traditional nomadic life with his wife and three children, far from the conflict - but he is not untouched by it.
His flock of sheep and seven camels are his main income source and prices for livestock have plummeted as tourism-related demand for meat has dropped.
"People, hotels, shops are not buying as much as they used to," Nawafleh says, translating for al Manajih.
"His annual income before the war used to be around 6000 Jordanian dinars a year (NZ$15,000). After the war it's not more than 3000 JDs.
Dan Nawafleh serving up Jordanian sweets at mealtime. Photo: Sharon Brettkelly
"It's affecting everything in his life, his family. Things like clothes and equipment for school."
Nawafleh says the government responded to an appeal for help from the tourism industry by reintroducing a subsidy launched in Covid for locals called 'Our Jordan is Heaven', cutting costs of tours to 20 percent of usual prices.
"Actually this won't be enough especially for people who are mainly working in tourism but it could help a little bit," he says.
Despite the struggle, Nawafleh is still chasing his dream of opening his own travel agency.
"A small company that offers real local experiences in Jordan. I wish to show people the beauty of my country, not only Petra but also the desert, mountains and the Bedouin culture. I want people to see the real Jordan and the way we live it ourselves."
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